Circle of Time - Kwakwaka'wakw Cultural Tour
The many islands of the Broughton Archipelago
offer fantastic wildlife
encounters, spectacular paddling, and the opportunity to witness many cultural treasures of the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nations. Our journey, led by your archaeologist-guide, will take you
through their traditional territory where
we'll see ancient village sites, pictographs,
and the famous "clam gardens"
of the northwest coast. Over 350 clam gardens have been documented in the archipelago
and they served, for thousands of years,
as the economic basis of the largest population
of non-agricultural people in North America.
Draped in moss and shrouded in mystery,
the islands themselves are stunning and
form a dramatic backdrop to our daily adventures.
» This is an enjoyable adventure for anyone with an interest in First Nations
culture, a passion for wildlife, and an interest in casual kayaking and hiking.
It is suitable for all skill levels. No paddling experience is necessary.
General Itinerary
Day 1
We will gather in Port McNeill at 8:00 am and drive to historic Telegraph Cove. Your guides will direct you through boat-packing and safe paddling techniques and soon you'll be on the water and heading across Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound. As we paddle, we'll keep a sharp lookout for the humpback and orca whales that frequent these waters, and we'll stop to stretch our legs, snack, and have lunch on one of the many scenic beaches along the way. Our camp for the first three nights is a beautiful, black gravel beach on Compton Island, facing Blackfish Sound. Permission to stay at this magical spot is generously granted by the Mamalilikulla. Each evening here will be spent enjoying the sunset on the water, exploring the island, listening to stories about the prehistory and history of the region, and socializing with friends.
Day 2
After a delicious and hearty breakfast, we paddle up Knight Inlet among a string of lovely islands leading to the world renowned village of ‘Mimkwamlis on Village Island. The Kwakwaka’wakw people occupied this village site for thousands of years, as the fascinating archaeological record for the area attests. You’ll walk among the village grounds and see the remains of a huge Big House and mortuary totem poles, as well as the remains of a fascinating early white settlement. Over a wonderful gourmet lunch on the beach your guide will fascinate you with the colorful history of ‘Mimkwamlis including tales of the "last potlatch." After lunch, we’ll head west through Village Channel where we’ll see an ancient petroglyph near the “Chief's Bath” before returning to the sanctuary of our camp-site.
Day 3
Today, we paddle through White Beach Passage past the ancient village of Tsedi, which was used for taking salmon, halibut, and clams. After a beautiful paddle through the many islands of the Carey Group, we return by way of Village Channel and stop off to visit T'sedi village. Here, we’ll examine the structure of a large prehistoric village uniquely situated in a protected lagoon teeming with fish and shellfish. If the tide permits, we’ll see a fantastic example of the famous “clam gardens” of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. Finally, we'll paddle back to Compton Island and spend a final evening enjoying a gourmet meal and the spectacular view of Blackfish Sound. As a bonus to this perfect scene, we may be treated to the appearance of humpback whales feeding just off the beach, silhouetted in the setting sun.
Day 4
This day will begin bright and early as we pack up camp and prepare for our paddle to Yukusam (Hanson) Island and the comfortable and well-appointed Steller base camp. Once on Yukusam, we'll relax and enjoy a delicious lunch befure setting up camp for the night. The afternoon will be spent hiking the Orca Trail in hopes of spotting the resident orca, and viewing culturally modified trees that attest to thousands of years of sustainable forest utilization by First Nations people. If time and opportunity allow, we will visit the Kwakwaka’wakw carver’s camp at Big Bay at the eastern terminus of the Orca Trail. Back at our base camp for the evening, your only responsibility is to relax and enjoy the view. The guides will prepare a sumptuous dinner and everyone will have a chance to socialize. The day ends with delectable dessert, storytelling and a discussion of the day's adventures.
Day 5
Today we return by kayak to Telegraph Cove. After packing up camp and having breakfast, we will embark on the short paddle back to Vancouver Island, arriving sometime near noon. While you enjoy a light lunch at one of the cafés in Telegraph Cove, your guides will prepare for the return trip to Port McNeill. After lunch, we will head for the ferry that will transport us to Alert Bay, on Cormorant Island. The scenic ferry ride is approximately 45 minutes in length and will afford more opportunities to look for wildlife. Upon arrival in Alert Bay, you will be driven to the Alert Bay Lodge B&B, where you will have the opportunity to rest and refresh yourself before dinner.
Day 6
Today we'll enjoy breakfast at the B&B, followed by a visit to the U’mista Cultural Center to view the fabulous “Potlatch Collection” which is permanently on display at the museum. We may also take time to explore the extensive art gallery and gift shop and view the world’s tallest totem pole. In the afternoon, we will watch a traditional dance performance in the community Big House. Following the performance, you are free to visit a variety of lunch spots in town. You will have time this afternoon to explore the area and participate in additional “interactive cultural experiences” if you desire. Dinner this evening will be a real treat: Roy Cranmer, a respected ‘Namgis Elder and fisherman, will share his knowledge and skill as he prepares a delicious sockeye salmon in the traditional manner on the beach. |
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Day 7
Following breakfast at the B&B, we will meet for a final unforgettable cultural experience in which a respected ‘Namgis Elder, Vera Newman, shares her peoples’ history through the ancient tradition of storytelling. While traditional First Nations did not create a written record, rich and complex oral histories were passed down with amazing fidelity through this storytelling technique. This final cultural activity is the perfect way to bring our amazing week to a close. We will depart Alert Bay on the 12:20pm ferry.
Wildlife
On our Circle of Time cultural tour,
you can expect to see many different marine
and terrestrial mammals including Orca,
Humpback and Minke whales, Steller sea lions
and harbour seals, Pacific white sided dolphins,
Dall's and harbour porpoise, eagles, black
bears, mink and river otters. An incredible
variety of intertidal creatures also thrive
along the shorelines and include sea urchins,
sea cucumbers, sea stars, crabs and chitons.
Great balls of herring and jumping salmon
complete this delightful wildlife experience.
Directions
The town of Port McNeill is 462 Km (287
miles) north of Victoria or 194 km (120
miles) north of Campbell River on Provincial
Route 19 N (Inland Island Highway N). So,
just take Route 19 north and follow the
signs to Port McNeill. You can't miss it!
More travel and accommodations information for our Circle of Time Tour.
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